Ulysses Prime Steakhouse: Restaurant review

Ulysses' Prime Steakhouse offers a new Theater Menu of small plates, including Kobe meatballs (foreground) and venison tenderloin (right), along with its regular menu. Also pictured: a ribeye in mushroom caps special, top left, and carpaccio from the regular menu, in background. (Credit: Chris Kridler, FLORIDA TODAY)

Ulysses’ Prime Steakhouse
5 palms (out of 5)
Where: 234 Brevard Ave., Cocoa Village
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday
Call: 321-639-3922
Other: The wine list is extensive, and liquor drinks also are available. See the menus at www.ulyssesprime.com. We also recommend its sister restaurant next door, Cafe Margaux.

Ulysses’ Prime Steakhouse offers a wonderful dining experience, whether you want to splurge on the works or try its new menu of smaller plates at smaller prices. Yes, some of the entrees are in the “if you have to ask” category when it comes to prices, but these small plates, under the new Theater Menu (offered most days, not holidays), are not just reasonably priced; they’re delicious.

It makes sense to offer smaller dishes for the crowds that come to Cocoa Village Playhouse’s productions next door, and they also are a great way to taste some fabulous food. We opted to choose from both menus so we could sample more of what Ulysses has to offer.
As during our previous visits, service was stellar, crisp but friendly, making for a relaxed atmosphere amid modern, elegant surroundings. We had the feeling we were in good hands. A bottle of the Greenpoint Shiraz ($50) started us on the road to happiness. Wines are offered by the glass on the small-plates menu for $6 to $8.

The pleasing kalamata olive bread came out first, a nod to the Greek heritage reflected in certain menu items.

It wasn’t easy making our choices on the small plates menu, but we leaned toward the meat dishes, which we knew from experience that Ulysses does very well. The one I loved most was a special — marinated ribeye in mushroom caps, nestled in a garlic cream sauce ($12). The beef was succulent and tender, and the sauce was amazing, a perfect complement. I could have eaten this all night.

The Kobe meatballs ($11) were lean, focused on the very good flavor of the beef, with the lemon peppercorn sauce a tangy companion. There may be better ways to serve kobe, but it makes a heck of a meatball.

We also chose the sliced venison tenderloin on brioche ($12), which was all about the tender, savory meat and not much brioche. The venison was allowed to speak, very well, for itself.

From the regular menu, my husband ordered the beef carpaccio for $14, which had a delicate, almost herbal flavor. It was prettily presented, with salad greens, shaved parmesan and olives that had him raving.

There’s an alluring selection of appetizers and main courses, with entrees priced from $24 up, but we were compelled to peruse the stars of the show, the high-end steaks. They include the intensely marbled Japanese Kobe 14-ounce ribeye for $160. We went the less expensive route and chose to split an entree featuring the American version, the Wagyu eye of ribeye steak ($68).

It may seem awkward to split an entree in a high-end restaurant, but our server assured us that guests were encouraged to split dishes if they wished, so they can try a little of everything. Subsequently, the steak arrived in ample portions on two plates, cooked medium-rare as we asked, each with a tuft of greenery and a bulb of heavenly roasted garlic.

The ribeye was superb by itself, but it was hard to resist dabbing it in the sweet roasted garlic or one of the four excellent sauces that are served here with steak: rosemary cabernet veal demiglace, a chocolate veal demiglace, pink and green peppercorn, and maltaise orange hollandaise with a touch of Grand Marnier, the most decadent and my favorite.

We tried a couple of desserts, too. I liked the bourbon peanut butter banana cake ($8), though the peanut butter edged out the other flavors. Even better was the excellent Baileys[ckr: CQ:  ] Irish Cream cheesecake ($7).

A little espresso, a lot of satisfaction, and we were on our way, hard-pressed to come up with anything to complain about. Ulysses’ Prime Steakhouse is not just a great steakhouse. It’s a great restaurant.

Contact Kridler at 321-242-3633 or ckridler@floridatoday.com.