(4 1/2 palms out of 5)
Where: 205 5th Ave., Indialantic
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
Call: 321-984-5045
Other: Try a cocktail from the bar. We enjoyed Manhattans and a Djon Tini. As for parking, there’s plenty around back on a nice paver-lined lot.
I think I can speak for everyone in our party about our reaction to Andiamo Cafe Italiano in Indialantic, after our delicious meal in its relaxed yet elegant atmosphere.
A member of the Pepaj Restaurants family, Andiamo shares the hipness of its neighbor, City Tropics, but with quiet style. A pretty indoor bar and a bamboo-lined alley with a fountain and outdoor seating make this a pleasant place for a cocktail and an appetizer as well as a full dinner. The service was attentive and friendly.
We, of course, were there for the dinner, which surprised us sometimes with its twists on conventional dishes while bursting with fresh flavors. We warmed up with good cocktails (a Manhattan for $9.50), then started with the tender, lightly breaded and fried calamari ($8.95), topped with gorgonzola (one of those nice twists) and accompanied by pomodoro sauce. It was excellent, as was the buttery escargot ($9.95), served with bits of portabello mushrooms and accented with Italian spices and cherry tomatoes.
The appetizers went well with the starter bread, which was soft and very good for dipping in the olive oil sprinkled with gorgonzola. An interesting Venetian Cabernet complemented the meal well. A friend ordered a zuppa di pesce special for her entree ($30.95), and the sauce was addictive, studded with mussels, clams, shrimp and more. We also ordered the Ahi Tuna Arrabiatta ($26.95), wonderful seared tuna served atop a buttery-rich risotto. I loved my gnocchi ($15.95), which had a light, pleasant texture, and I loved its pomodoro sauce, with its fresh, bright flavors.
There was no room for dessert, but sacrifices must be made, so we ordered the hot and rich lava cake ($6.95) served with vanilla gelato, and the creme brulee ($6.95). The latter was a surprise, and for some may be a disappointment if their taste buds are set, because it is really a denser panna cotta with a caramelized sugar topping. Know that, and it’s quite good. It’s accented with strawberries and mint, which greatly enhance the flavor.
Ah, Andiamo. I look forward to returning.
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